SE Asia: The Philippines' Camiguin & Siargao

Camiguin's tranquil tropical splendor from the White Island sandbar.

After being blown away by the beauty of the Central Visayas region, we had high hopes for part two of our Philippines adventure (post on part one here). The plan was to spend a few days exploring the tiny island of Camiguin, which is dubbed the "island of fire" for its many volcanoes, and then head somewhere with waves, so we could spend our last two-ish weeks in the country surfing. 

Camiguin ended up being the highlight of my time in the Philippines. Majestic volcanoes, secluded waterfalls, thriving exotic marine life, and immaculate white and black sand beaches covered in shells. Its serene, unspoiled nature almost defies imagination. 

Sunset surfers at Secret Beach in Siargao.

Finding a satisfying surf spot in the country was harder than expected though, and had us bouncing from one side of the country to the other. Siargao in the southeast is considered the Philippines' surf capital, and in hindsight we probably should've gone straight there, but I'd written it off for a few reasons. For one thing, the internet warned that getting on and off the island could be difficult due to weather conditions sometimes halting flights for up to a week at a time. Plus its beaches are known for having reef break, meaning sharp coral is right under the waves. Not a big problem for experienced surfers, but not ideal for newbies like myself. 

A colorful building in La Union.

With that in mind and the Taal Volcano having died down, we decided to circle back to the north, which is home to two surf locations with sandy beaches that get a little less attention, La Union and Baler. The latter is actually the birthplace of surf in the Philippines. Back in 1979, Hollywood left a few boards behind after producing the war-cum-surf film Apocalypse Now, and the rest is history. Since then locals have taken up the sport, and made it their own. I was excited to see what these less touristic spots had to offer.

Sadly, La Union was a letdown. So much so that we left after just two nights. Why? Well, first and foremost, the lack of surf. It was the right season--there was even an international competition planned that week--but mother nature decided she wasn't in the mood for waves anytime soon.

Our board in Siargao was abt. €4/day.

The second reason we left was because of how expensive it was to rent equipment. Every single shop wanted nearly €20 a day for a board, which is 3x-4x the price in Siargao. Apparently, rental companies in La Union recently banded together and agreed on a major price hike, which meant that we wouldn't be able to afford having a surfboard the entire time even if waves did eventually turn up. We were both feeling pretty disappointed, since this was probably the only country on our trip where getting in surf practice was even a possibility.

The view from a nice, but pricey guesthouse in La Union.

Were it not for La Union's lackluster accommodations and general atmosphere, we probably would've stayed and just enjoyed the beach. Most hostels and guesthouses were more rundown than laidback though, and not cheap. We were quoted €80 a night for a room in one of the nicer places, which is 3x what we paid anywhere else in the Philippines!

We did find a few fun restaurants in the two blocks in front of the main surf area, including one fabulous sushi joint, but there wasn't much beyond that, and there were no options to rent scooters to explore the surrounding area, because tourism just isn't as much of a thing there. So, deflated, we decided it was time to leave La Union. 

Some street art in La Union's two more happening blocks by the beach.

With surf conditions looking equally poor in Baler in the near future, we decided to take our chances on Siargao. Another couple we'd met while traveling was already there and loving it. In the end, we lost three full days simply getting to the island, because our flights got cancelled a few times due to poor weather, as the internet predicted, but it was worth the extra time and cost. 

Spent lots of time in airports getting to Siargao.

Secret Beach in Siargao on a perfect day. 

Given how little time we spent in La Union, I've decided to focus this post solely on Camiguin and Siargao--both places I really enjoyed and would recommend. As usual, I've broken everything down into three main sections: 

• Our itinerary (including the route I wish we'd taken);
• Impressions of Camiguin & Siargao; and
• The budget breakdown.

Itinerary

Our route this time was a little bonkers (see left image). At the time, going north to surf seemed like a good decision, but we ended up circling back to the southeast when our plans didn't pan out (over 1,500 unnecessary kilometers). 

In hindsight, I wish we'd headed straight to Siargao and skipped La Union (see right image). If you do go to Siargao though, plan a few days buffer around getting on and off the island, because flight cancellations are a very real possibility. And pick the earliest flight that day when booking, because it will be the first one to get rebooked.

Actual travel dates Jan. 27, 2020 though Feb. 25, 2020. N/A--Not available as travel days. 

Camiguin: A Remote Ecological Paradise

Camiguin's many volcanoes give the island a dramatic silhouette.

Although the Philippines' second-smallest province by landmass and population has a tiny domestic airport, we got the ferry to Camiguin. After a few hours of chugging along the open ocean, with a cold beer in hand and a podcast in my ear, a mountainous island serving some serious Jurassic Park vibes appeared on the horizon. Thick green jungle enveloped striking peaks that jetted up nearly 2,000 meters above sea level, and signs of civilization were sparse. 

Camiguin's fertile soil and unique geological formations are thanks to its many volcanoes. There are so many in fact that they outnumber municipalities seven to five, and earn the island the distinction of having the highest density of volcanoes in the world. Thankfully only one is still considered active, Mt. Hibok-Hibok, and its last eruption was back in the 1953. 

The eco beach resort where we stayed.

With mountainous jungle taking up the island's interior, most towns remain situated on the perimeter and development is fairly limited. But that's not to say you can't find nice places. On the contrary, we found some real gems! For the first few nights, Thore treated us to a fancier eco resort on a black sand beach with a swimming pool, and we later moved to a cheaper, but perfectly nice family-run guesthouse nearby. We also happened upon a lovely rustic inn while dinning one night that had a beautiful ocean view.

Me lounging in the hammocks at one of the eco resorts.

A candle-light dinner of roasted local veggies.

My favorite find though was Kurma, an eco beach lodge slash free diving place with a killer kitchen. They use fresh local ingredients to make Filipino fusion cuisine, and offer a menu that is 70% vegetarian. We tried grilled banana hearts and sautéed ferns, along with a pork ragu, and mango milkshakes. Coconut "meat" burgers were also popular, but we didn't end up trying those. We enjoyed the place so much that we probably ate here once a day during our stay. It was the perfect afternoon and evening hangout, complete with WiFi that reached the hammocks, a sunset view, and a cozy wooden bar inside where they put fresh flowers on the tables and light candles at night. 

A stunning sunset from Kurma.

But the reason Camiguin won a place in my heart isn't the food or the eco resorts, it's the island's nature and peacefulness. We were astounded at the amount of different nature attractions on such a small island (approx. 240  km²). And there were never more than a handful of tourists around us, so we always felt like we had the place to ourselves. 

My favorite excursion hands down was our afternoon trip to White Island, an idyllic uninhabited sandbar that's a five-minute boat ride from shore. It is the whitest, cleanest stretch of beach I've seen in my life. With crystal blue waters and the dramatic backdrop of Mt. Hibok-Hibok, it was pinch-yourself beautiful. A gorgeous conch shell just lay washed up on shore. I felt like we were in a screen saver. And perhaps best of all, most of the time, we only had to share it with a single fisherman.

Will you just look at that water!!! 

Happy as a clam soaking up sun.

Since there's literally nothing on this "island", no water, no food, nothing, you have to pack accordingly and agree on a pick-up time in advance (everyone is kicked off by 5 pm). Thankfully the boats taking you there and back also rent out umbrellas, so we secured some shade. Thore isn't a big sun bunny though, so we left after two hours. I could've stayed all day though, provided I had enough sunscreen and snacks. 

These colorful boats take you to and from White Island.

The cross was only added in 1982.

The next best thing we did was snorkel the Sunken Cemetery. The experience was much less spooky and more magical than I expected. From the surface, all you can see is a huge cross erected on lava commemorating a graveyard that dropped below sea level following the volcanic eruptions of Mt. Vulcan in 1871-1875 and then again in 1948. I, for one, pictured eerily preserved tombstones and ruins under the water's surface, but the reality was pretty different. Almost everything in the cemetery was already covered over by beautiful coral reef that was exploding with marine life. 

Because the area is protected, you need to pay to have a guide take you through the site. Ours carefully navigated through the shallow waters that were packed with schools of vibrant fish, pointing out hidden bits of the old cemetery that I'd definitely have missed. He also took us by some very impressive psychedelic-colored giant clams. We left feeling the snorkeling was worth far more than we paid.

Me at the base of Mt. Vulcan surrounded by lush tropical forest.

One of the many stations with statues along the way.

Not far from the cemetery, there's a short hike that takes you up the volcano that put the graves under water. On the way up, we passed various stops depicting Jesus' ascension on the cross. It's a popular pilgrimage among the island's catholic population, but for us it was more about the views from the top. 

 The view from Mt. Vulcan: Can you spot the Sunken Cemetery and surrounding ring of coral?

Thanks to the humidity, the 30-minute hike actually had us sweating bullets, so our next stop that day was much needed. We headed to the beautiful Tuasan Falls, which is hidden away in a valley between two volcanoes. Taking a cool plunge there was so refreshing, and, unlike the falls in Siquijor, there was hardly anyone there, which made the visit much more enjoyable.

But getting to the falls on scooter was honestly half the fun. Warm air whipped past us, as we followed narrow roads that took us through small communities of friendly locals, with homes tucked away in the forest. Palms towered overhead and the thick unruly green vegetation was smattered with accents of vibrant yellows, oranges, purples and reds. In spots where the forest parted, you'd catch a glimpse of the surrounding volcanoes, and the end of the road took us through a small ravine. 

Bright foliage and flowers jumped out wherever you looked.

The road to the falls was filled with views like this where mountains peak out from palms.

On our last day in Camiguin, we headed to the other side of the island to catch a small boat to another islet called Mantigue Island. Mantigue is slightly bigger than White Island and inhabited by a handful of families who are said to all be related. As we arrived, the skies were looking dark, but the rain clouds didn't hang around long, and we enjoyed a sunny afternoon on the beach. Too sunny perhaps, as I left the island with a bit of a sunburn.

I blame my sunburn entirely on the island's exquisite snorkeling. With your head underwater there it's easy to loose track of time. The beach isn't the most comfortable to lay on though, because its made almost entirely of broken bits of coral that have washed up from the surrounding reef. I did find some beautiful shells on the shore though. You can also get something to eat and drink there, but we decided to headed back before I turned into a tomato. 

Mantigue Island offers clear waters, a fantastic reef, and some shade.

In the end, five days weren't even enough to do all the activities that Camiguin has to offer. We skipped out on hiking the famous Mt. Hibok-Hibok, which required a guide, and we didn't make it to any of the island's hot and cool springs, but we left the island feeling so lucky to have seen what we did. My main hope for Camiguin is that as tourism picks up the island doesn't loose it charm. 

Siargao: A Buzzing Spot For Surf & Sundowners

Palm-rimmed Secret Beach in Siargao is ironically a pretty popular surf spot.

Siargao's skies remained stormy for a few days.

As much as I liked Siargao in the end, things didn't get off to a great start. The stormy weather that got our flight to the island cancelled two days in a row carried on into the first few days of our stay, leaving streets a muddy mess, and making beach days pretty unappealing. 

Between bad weather and the failed trip up north, I began doubting my decision-making abilities, and wondered if coming to Siargao was a mistake. As we sat in a restaurant on night one with muddy legs, looking out onto a torrential downpour, and consoling ourselves with pricey nachos and beer while 20-somethings around us ordered shots in a way that only 20-somethings can, my thoughts spiraled. Will the rain ever stop? What if the reef break I read about tears me to bits? Am I too old to be here? And more importantly, how am I going to afford two weeks here if this is the price of snacks and beer? 

Our scooter had a board rack.

After a few days though, the weather and my mood improved, and things began to fall into place. We secured ourselves a surfboard and scooter with a board rack for a great price, and scoped out the best surf spots for beginners. There were basically two options if you are staying in the main town, General Luna: Jacking Horse, which was right by the main drag and next to the famous pro surf area called Cloud 9; and then a place called Secret Beach, which was about a 30-minute drive outside of town.

Secret Beach ended up being our favorite (see image at top of section), despite the drive and it definitely not being secret (see image below). You'd park along the road, and make your way through forest for about five minutes to a thin stretch of palm-rimmed beach where you were greeted by a friendly locals renting boards and pretty consistent, small waves.

The surf spots were definitely crowded at times.

Me up on the board!

Siargao's reef break had me nervously sitting on the sidelines at first though. While I'd caught waves before at a week-long surf camp in Portgual, surfing over sharp coral seemed much more dangerous. I eventually worked up the courage to get in the water though, after seeing numerous local "instructors" take out other beginners without incurring any injuries (I use the word instructors loosely, because it was largely just local surfers trying to make cash by pushing tourists on boards into waves at the exact right moment to catch them rather than actually teaching surf skills). The key to avoiding reef it seems is simply to only go out at high tide, and make sure to fall flat instead of jumping down into the water. Not ideal, but a surmountable challenge that only left me with a few small scratches.

This place in town was pretty in the day, 
but loud evenings and didn't have a real kitchen.

We also moved from the "trendy" part of town with hostels and evenings of booming bass to a quiet bungalow with a kitchen further out of town. I was overjoyed at finally being able to cook my own food again for the first time in months. To our delight, the hosts also offered free breakfast. These two things helped us drastically cut down costs while eating very well. While the supermarkets had a pretty limited selection of items (mostly highly processed and canned foods, think SPAM and chips), you could get a decent selection of fresh produce from stalls alongside the road.

Me stocking up on all the fresh fruit and veggies for cooking.

The white sand and blue water doesn't get old.

It wasn't long before we fell into an enjoyable routine on the island. Mornings, we'd wake up to freshly prepared fluffy banana pancakes and hot coffee. Thore would go off for a morning surf, and then I'd write on this blog, or workout. Around noon, I'd cook us lunch, and then we'd both go surfing again, hang out at the beach, or running errands like restocking the fridge or finding sunscreen and bug repellant. Some evenings were spent in, but a few times a week we'd venture out to enjoy a meal and drinks. More often than not, we found ourselves at a beach resort called BRAVO, which had nice food, lounge seating, and a buzzing atmosphere. 

You'd often find us here at BRAVO.

The perfect spot to relax with a beer!

Lush landscaping at a beach resort.

Looking back, we definitely could have done more to explore the island, but our goal was simply to surf and recuperate after many months of travel, and I can say that we definitely accomplished that! While I think there are better, less crowded places to learn surfing than Siargao (Peniche, Portugal is at the top of my list), it still fit the bill. And despite the island being more touristic and catering to a slightly younger crowd, we still had a blast and the relaxed tropical atmosphere really grew on me. 

Spending Breakdown

*Costs reduced by traveling as a couple.

Spending for the second half of my Philippines trip was much like the first half in a few ways: 

• Transport costs continued to take up a huge chunk of total spending (nearly 40%);
• Food costs remained at about €10-€15 a day; and
• Accommodation costs also stayed pretty consistent at about €26 per day (€13 per person).

While we definitely lost money bouncing from location to location, I'm not kicking myself because of it. As I mentioned in the last post, I think the Philippines is a country that makes it incredibly hard to have a perfect travel plan laid out ahead of time. I'd highly recommend anyone traveling to the country to add a buffer to their transport budget for unexpected costs.