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| Laos' striking landscape through a filthy bus window. |
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| We entered Laos from the South and went up. |
 |
| A rash covered both my legs. |
Unfortunately, I came down with the mosquito-borne chikungunya virus after a few days in Laos. OK, I didn't get a formal diagnosis so I'm not 100% sure, but my symptoms matched to a tee. Rash? Check. Fever and severe joint pain? Check, check. Lethargy and weakness that leaves you feeling like picking up your phone is a Herculean task? Big check. Thankfully, the fever and rash only stuck around for a day, but my joints and energy levels took nearly two weeks to recover (apparently "chikungunya arthritis" can last months to years for an unlucky few O_o). All this sadly meant I had to skip the motor loops.
While I rested up in the nicest hostel (think comfy beds with fluffy white comforters, and free freshly baked banana muffins to boot), I sent Thore off to explore solo. At least one of us could have fun I figured, convinced I wouldn't mind being alone on Christmas after having spent many abroad without family. But when the 25th rolled around, the combo of getting sick for the second time in a month and being in an unfamiliar place by myself did have me feeling a little homesick and travel fatigued. My hatred of mosquitoes was also at an all time high.
Luckily, time marches on. Thore returned from his trip earlier than expected, and we carried on the journey in a less physically demanding fashion, using Luang Prabang as a base for activities. My spirits and health rebounded in time to bring in the New Year, our two-day slow boat trip back to Thailand turned out to be totally enjoyable, and I was thrilled to see a familiar face when I reunited with my friend in Chiang Mai. There were fewer mosquitos in the North too. All was right with the world again.
For a more detailed look at what we got up to, below I've included my:
While I rested up in the nicest hostel (think comfy beds with fluffy white comforters, and free freshly baked banana muffins to boot), I sent Thore off to explore solo. At least one of us could have fun I figured, convinced I wouldn't mind being alone on Christmas after having spent many abroad without family. But when the 25th rolled around, the combo of getting sick for the second time in a month and being in an unfamiliar place by myself did have me feeling a little homesick and travel fatigued. My hatred of mosquitoes was also at an all time high.
Luckily, time marches on. Thore returned from his trip earlier than expected, and we carried on the journey in a less physically demanding fashion, using Luang Prabang as a base for activities. My spirits and health rebounded in time to bring in the New Year, our two-day slow boat trip back to Thailand turned out to be totally enjoyable, and I was thrilled to see a familiar face when I reunited with my friend in Chiang Mai. There were fewer mosquitos in the North too. All was right with the world again.
For a more detailed look at what we got up to, below I've included my:
- Itinerary & highlights;
- Impressions of Laos, the slow boat trip, and Chiang Mai; and
- Monthly spending.
 |
| Actual travel dates were Dec. 21, 2019, through Jan. 15, 2020. N/A--Not applicable as travel days. |
Laos From the Bottom Up
The gorgeous Kuang Si Falls outside Luang Prabang.
Laos' diverse natural beauty and general lack of development make it a fantastic place for raw backroads adventure, and Thore's favorite country so far. Its pristine aqua blue waterfalls, lush green rice fields, and jagged mountains left us in awe. We'd wake up to misty mornings on the Mekong River, and wind down to glowing orange-red sunsets and starry clear night skies.
While I loved the unadulterated landscapes, the limited infrastructure was also jarring at times. Pit stops on our bus rides were often just the side of the road, and when I got sick the hostel owner told me to head back to Thailand if I needed a hospital. I thought she was joking, but nope. Apparently air and land evacuation to Thailand is common, given Lao's very limited medical care (click here for a rundown).
On that note, I strongly suggest anyone visiting the country get travel health insurance that covers transport costs. This goes double if you're planning any motorbike adventures, given the very poor state of the road network (less than 30% of roads are paved).
 |
| The gorgeous Kuang Si Falls outside Luang Prabang. |
Laos' diverse natural beauty and general lack of development make it a fantastic place for raw backroads adventure, and Thore's favorite country so far. Its pristine aqua blue waterfalls, lush green rice fields, and jagged mountains left us in awe. We'd wake up to misty mornings on the Mekong River, and wind down to glowing orange-red sunsets and starry clear night skies.
While I loved the unadulterated landscapes, the limited infrastructure was also jarring at times. Pit stops on our bus rides were often just the side of the road, and when I got sick the hostel owner told me to head back to Thailand if I needed a hospital. I thought she was joking, but nope. Apparently air and land evacuation to Thailand is common, given Lao's very limited medical care (click here for a rundown).
On that note, I strongly suggest anyone visiting the country get travel health insurance that covers transport costs. This goes double if you're planning any motorbike adventures, given the very poor state of the road network (less than 30% of roads are paved).
4,000 Islands' Don Det Is A Delight
Don Det is all about chilling out in riverside cafes.
4,000 Islands' Don Det Is A Delight
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| Don Det is all about chilling out in riverside cafes. |
Before I get into what Don Det was like, I need to talk about getting there, because that was an experience in and of itself, and really set the tone of travel in the country.
A blurry selfie from the truck.
A ragtag pickup truck waited for our group of a dozen travelers to clear immigrations at the Cambodian-Lao border. The driver then packed us into two rows of makeshift benches installed in back, and set off for the banks of the Mekong. Thore and two others didn't actually fit though, and had to stand on a ledge above the bumper, holding onto the roof rack like G.I.s being shipped out to the front lines. After a half hour of bouncing down dirt roads, I glanced back to see if Thore's grip and patience were waning. The look of pure joy on his face assured me he was more than fine.
Our boat fit about eight adults with luggage.
We reached the river at sunset, and climbed into tiny wooden boats. My stomach gripped as we rocked precariously from side to side and sunk deeper and deeper under the weight of four heavyset Viking-esque Finnish men who'd joined us. My distress melted away though as we glided across the river. I was utterly mesmerized by the water rippling past. It was like dancing liquid gold, catching the colors of a sky set on fire.
I didn't know it yet, but this journey by truck and boat ended up being like so many others in Laos. The ride wasn't comfortable or especially safe, but we made it, with some stories to tell and slowly enough to appreciate our beautiful surroundings. It struck me that this thrill and charm are exactly what people come here for.
This place's nap area was further in the back.
We spent our first day on the island doing what Don Det is known best for, riverside relaxing. We settled into a cafe overlooking the Mekong and a few of the thousands of "islands" the area is named after, which are just little islets and green tufts of grass. Most of the cafes had low Japanese-style tables and cushions on the floor that were perfect for lazying about. We ordered coffee, and then a fruit shake, and then lunch, and then dinner, and watched another spectacular sunset.
There also was a pretty chilled party scene. Regardless of the hour, there was always a group of backpackers drinking and ordering "happy" items at some riverside cafe (which I later learned meant weed infused). I even found a baggy of unmarked pills in the grass, so I assume that those things go down here as well...
We took a more wholesome approach to experiencing the island and rented bikes and cycled to some rapids.
Unfortunately, this is also the day where I started to feel sick, so we didn't explore much. I was exhausted and went straight back for a nap, and we began plotting our departure since being in the middle of nowhere seemed like a bad idea, if this unknown ailment got worse.
The Pakse Loop From Thore's Perspective
One of the paved roads on the Pakse Loop.
After Don Det, we headed to Pakse, Laos' second-largest town, with a population of about 100,000. I could rest up in a comfy place that had medical care just in case, and Thore could go off adventuring on a nearby motor loop we'd read about.
Since he did the Pakse Loop solo, I can't speak to what it's like, but I'll include his pictures and rough description below. I can tell you he had a fantastic time!
He decided to do the smaller version of the loop, which is about 150 km versus the "big loop," which is a little over 300 km. The route took him up the Bolaven Plateau, to numerous waterfalls, and an organic coffee plantation where you can recaffeinate and learn about the growing and roasting process. He came across a few villages, a group of monks, and a computer education center, and said he encountered about eight other travelers over the course of two days.
The coffee beans are sorted by hand.
The computer education center displayed the technology.
The roads were mostly paved, but deteriorating in parts with frequent potholes. I'm told one of the greatest dangers was actually chickens though. Homes along the side of the road raise them, and they run around freely, sometimes into the roads and oncoming traffic. Just something to keep in mind if you're in those parts!
Luang Prabang: A Cultural Capital
Looking down on Luang Prabang from Mount Phou Si.
The town has two bamboo bridges, which
are rebuilt each year after heavy rains.
Our next stop was Luang Prabang, which is nestled in a valley where the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers meet. The region has been inhabited for thousands of years, and enjoyed wealth and influence from its strategic position along the Silk Road. Until the monarchy was dissolved in 1975, Luang Prabang was Lao's royal capital, and is known for its Buddhist temples, and fusion of traditional Lao and colonial architecture.
All this has earned the town of roughly 50,000 a spot on the UNESCO World Heritage list, and makes it attractive to travelers and a little more touristic. The plus side of this is that the selection of accommodations, restaurants, and general infrastructure was a step up from the other towns we'd seen in Laos, with some truly upscale options available. That said, we struggled a little to find a place in our price range, given that it was New Years and lots of places were booked out. We ended up at a guesthouse with a mattress that can only be described as rock like. Despite some sleepless nights, we totally enjoyed the town, and never found ourselves twiddling our thumbs in our five days there.
The Wat Xieng Thong Temple is where Lao kings were crowned.
Part of the Wat Xieng Thong Temple.
After Angkor Wat, I figured I'd be hard to impress temple wise, but I loved some in Luang Prabang. In particular, the Wat Xieng Thong Temple, which dates back in 1560, but was restored in the 1960s, is a stunner. We visited at sunset, and its gilded exterior, intricate iridescent glass mosaics, and gold roof glowed. There is also a small Buddhist temple and stupa on top of Mount Phou Si, a 150-meter hill in the center of town that you can get to by climbing a series of stairs flanked by golden dragons. I was less impressed by the structures themselves, but the view from up there very much worth the entrance fee (see image at the top of this section).
Another temple by the night market.
The steps down from Mount Phou Si lead straight to the town's night market, which we frequented literally every day of our stay. There were tons of stalls with art, clothes, and jewelry, but also a section with food. I tried a few curries, but more often than not I'd order Lao Khao Soi, a rice noodle soup with clear broth and a ladle of what I can only describe as a hearty Asian version of Bolognese, which is made of minced pork, tomato, and fermented soy beans. You'd top the soup with sprouts, fresh herbs, and a squeeze of lime.
The night market was always bustling.
My beloved Khao Soi before adding herbs.
Our other absolute favorite thing was getting a fresh fruit shake daily. For about a euro, you'd get generous amounts of perfectly ripe fruit blended with ice, and it was unbelievably refreshing in the hot weather. They'd typically add condensed milk to sweeten it, but were more than happy to omit it if you asked.
Around the night market, there were a few bars and restaurants where we celebrated New Year's.
We also made a point to take some day trips. Our favorite excursion, and the most popular in town, was to the Kuang Si Waterfall. It was really a series of waterfalls, with about five different tiers of swimming holes. The water was this incredible milky turquoise color. Before you arrive at the falls, you walk through a bear sanctuary, which rescues bears from horrible situations like bile farming. You can observe them in their spacious habitat from a viewing platform behind a glass wall.
Most people just swam at the falls, but we decided to do a 45-minute hike up behind them, which took us to a little cave with Buddha statues inside. Nearby in the middle of the forest was a super peaceful and incredibly picturesque riverside cafe. The owner had put logs across and a sign that said, if you make it to the other side and back without falling, you'd get a free drink. If you fell twice trying though, you'd have to buy a drink. Brilliant marketing on his part. We watched everyone who passed try and fail, which left me itching to give it a go. Turns out this 31-year-old former gymnast has still got it! I slipped once, but secured a free ice coffee in the end.
On our last day in Luang Prabang, we rented bikes and cycled to a celebration of the local Hmong people held outside of town in a forest. After some tough pedaling on barely functioning bikes for about 30 minutes, we made it.
Girls and guys tossing balls back and forth.
Their beautiful outfits!
Nearly everyone was in incredibly colorful traditional outfits. There were a few rides for children, food vendors, stages with performances, and groups of people throwing small balls back and forth. No one spoke English, but the internet tells me the game they were playing is actually a courtship ritual. Men and women assemble in two lines and toss a ball back and forth to get to know one another. It proved to be a cheerful end to our time in Luang Prabang.
What's The Slow Boat To Thailand Really Like?
A few slow boats sitting on the Mekong.
Still trying to avoid flights and up the adventure factor, we'd elected to take a slow boat back to Thailand. It takes two days to get from Luang Prabang to the Thai border, and you're on the river from about 8:00 am to 5:00 pm each day, with no stops for lunch. Given numerous online accounts of the journey as boring and extremely uncomfortable, I wasn't sure if we'd made a wise decision.
After a few hours on board, I was already telling Thore how much I loved it though. Without cell service, you were forced to just be present and enjoy the ride. I found it incredibly relaxing. There was fresh air, changing scenery, and a snack bar in back that served instant coffee, beer, chips, and cup-of-noodle soups. I'd take this over the stuffy buses we'd been on in Laos any day! I think so long as you don't come expecting luxury, and make sure to bring food and a book, you're sure to enjoy yourself! I packed us loads of fresh fruit, nuts, sweet potato chips, and some boiled potatoes wrapped in banana leaf from Luang Prabang's market.
We passed the lush green mountains surrounding Luang Prabang.
In terms of comfort, things weren't great, but they were far from awful. At the back there was a series of wooden benches with cushions, but also a number of rows of cushy, albeit worn, car seats. Both days, we made a point to board quickly so we could snag the comfier and quieter seats toward the front away from the motor. But even those who got stuck with wood benches in back didn't have to suffer for too long. By afternoon only about half the passengers were left, and almost everyone had a bench to themselves and could lay down to read or sleep.
Our accommodation for the night also was agreeable. I figured we might be staying in a hut with mosquito nets and a generator, but the tiny village of Pak Beng where we stopped had nice guesthouses with heated water and comfy beds. There were a few restaurants, a paved road, and power from a hydroelectric power station down the river.
Our boat carried everything from produce
to a motorbike and a fridge.
Locals were often waiting at stops to help unload goods and sell snacks to passengers.
The passengers onboard were pretty evenly split between travelers and locals. While most of the foreigners were heading to Thailand like us, locals got on and off at tiny communities along the way. They were often transporting various goods with them too, and when they disembarked there was almost always a group eagerly awaiting their arrival and excited about the delivery.
Can you spot the homes along the river?
While two days on the river is probably my limit, I really enjoyed seeing the isolated communities we past. It was incredibly impressive to see how people without access to roads, electricity, or running water make do with fishing, farming, and raising livestock. Many homes were built from gathered wood and bamboo, and had roofs of thatched leaves, making them difficult to spot at times.
We saw many bamboo poles like this one with nets attached used for fishing.
I later learned that the bulk of the population actually lives in villages ranging from just a few to several hundred households, according to Encyclopedia Britannica. And, as of 2010, about 8% of the population did not have access to roads, according to the World Health Organization. Seeing the lack of infrastructure firsthand was eyeopening and made me incredibly grateful for so many things that I take for granted on a daily basis like being able to go to store to buy produce or medicine.
Before I get into what Don Det was like, I need to talk about getting there, because that was an experience in and of itself, and really set the tone of travel in the country.
 |
| A blurry selfie from the truck. |
 |
| Our boat fit about eight adults with luggage. |
We reached the river at sunset, and climbed into tiny wooden boats. My stomach gripped as we rocked precariously from side to side and sunk deeper and deeper under the weight of four heavyset Viking-esque Finnish men who'd joined us. My distress melted away though as we glided across the river. I was utterly mesmerized by the water rippling past. It was like dancing liquid gold, catching the colors of a sky set on fire.
I didn't know it yet, but this journey by truck and boat ended up being like so many others in Laos. The ride wasn't comfortable or especially safe, but we made it, with some stories to tell and slowly enough to appreciate our beautiful surroundings. It struck me that this thrill and charm are exactly what people come here for.  |
| This place's nap area was further in the back. |
There also was a pretty chilled party scene. Regardless of the hour, there was always a group of backpackers drinking and ordering "happy" items at some riverside cafe (which I later learned meant weed infused). I even found a baggy of unmarked pills in the grass, so I assume that those things go down here as well...
Unfortunately, this is also the day where I started to feel sick, so we didn't explore much. I was exhausted and went straight back for a nap, and we began plotting our departure since being in the middle of nowhere seemed like a bad idea, if this unknown ailment got worse.
The Pakse Loop From Thore's Perspective
 |
| One of the paved roads on the Pakse Loop. |
After Don Det, we headed to Pakse, Laos' second-largest town, with a population of about 100,000. I could rest up in a comfy place that had medical care just in case, and Thore could go off adventuring on a nearby motor loop we'd read about.
Since he did the Pakse Loop solo, I can't speak to what it's like, but I'll include his pictures and rough description below. I can tell you he had a fantastic time!
Since he did the Pakse Loop solo, I can't speak to what it's like, but I'll include his pictures and rough description below. I can tell you he had a fantastic time!
He decided to do the smaller version of the loop, which is about 150 km versus the "big loop," which is a little over 300 km. The route took him up the Bolaven Plateau, to numerous waterfalls, and an organic coffee plantation where you can recaffeinate and learn about the growing and roasting process. He came across a few villages, a group of monks, and a computer education center, and said he encountered about eight other travelers over the course of two days.
 |
| The coffee beans are sorted by hand. |
 |
| The computer education center displayed the technology. |
The roads were mostly paved, but deteriorating in parts with frequent potholes. I'm told one of the greatest dangers was actually chickens though. Homes along the side of the road raise them, and they run around freely, sometimes into the roads and oncoming traffic. Just something to keep in mind if you're in those parts!
Luang Prabang: A Cultural Capital
 |
| Looking down on Luang Prabang from Mount Phou Si. |
 |
| The town has two bamboo bridges, which are rebuilt each year after heavy rains. |
Our next stop was Luang Prabang, which is nestled in a valley where the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers meet. The region has been inhabited for thousands of years, and enjoyed wealth and influence from its strategic position along the Silk Road. Until the monarchy was dissolved in 1975, Luang Prabang was Lao's royal capital, and is known for its Buddhist temples, and fusion of traditional Lao and colonial architecture.
All this has earned the town of roughly 50,000 a spot on the UNESCO World Heritage list, and makes it attractive to travelers and a little more touristic. The plus side of this is that the selection of accommodations, restaurants, and general infrastructure was a step up from the other towns we'd seen in Laos, with some truly upscale options available. That said, we struggled a little to find a place in our price range, given that it was New Years and lots of places were booked out. We ended up at a guesthouse with a mattress that can only be described as rock like. Despite some sleepless nights, we totally enjoyed the town, and never found ourselves twiddling our thumbs in our five days there.
All this has earned the town of roughly 50,000 a spot on the UNESCO World Heritage list, and makes it attractive to travelers and a little more touristic. The plus side of this is that the selection of accommodations, restaurants, and general infrastructure was a step up from the other towns we'd seen in Laos, with some truly upscale options available. That said, we struggled a little to find a place in our price range, given that it was New Years and lots of places were booked out. We ended up at a guesthouse with a mattress that can only be described as rock like. Despite some sleepless nights, we totally enjoyed the town, and never found ourselves twiddling our thumbs in our five days there.
 |
| The Wat Xieng Thong Temple is where Lao kings were crowned. |
 |
| Part of the Wat Xieng Thong Temple. |
 |
| Another temple by the night market. |
 |
| The night market was always bustling. |
 |
| My beloved Khao Soi before adding herbs. |
Our other absolute favorite thing was getting a fresh fruit shake daily. For about a euro, you'd get generous amounts of perfectly ripe fruit blended with ice, and it was unbelievably refreshing in the hot weather. They'd typically add condensed milk to sweeten it, but were more than happy to omit it if you asked.  |
| Around the night market, there were a few bars and restaurants where we celebrated New Year's. |
We also made a point to take some day trips. Our favorite excursion, and the most popular in town, was to the Kuang Si Waterfall. It was really a series of waterfalls, with about five different tiers of swimming holes. The water was this incredible milky turquoise color. Before you arrive at the falls, you walk through a bear sanctuary, which rescues bears from horrible situations like bile farming. You can observe them in their spacious habitat from a viewing platform behind a glass wall.
Most people just swam at the falls, but we decided to do a 45-minute hike up behind them, which took us to a little cave with Buddha statues inside. Nearby in the middle of the forest was a super peaceful and incredibly picturesque riverside cafe. The owner had put logs across and a sign that said, if you make it to the other side and back without falling, you'd get a free drink. If you fell twice trying though, you'd have to buy a drink. Brilliant marketing on his part. We watched everyone who passed try and fail, which left me itching to give it a go. Turns out this 31-year-old former gymnast has still got it! I slipped once, but secured a free ice coffee in the end. 
On our last day in Luang Prabang, we rented bikes and cycled to a celebration of the local Hmong people held outside of town in a forest. After some tough pedaling on barely functioning bikes for about 30 minutes, we made it.
 |
| Girls and guys tossing balls back and forth. |
 |
| Their beautiful outfits! |
Nearly everyone was in incredibly colorful traditional outfits. There were a few rides for children, food vendors, stages with performances, and groups of people throwing small balls back and forth. No one spoke English, but the internet tells me the game they were playing is actually a courtship ritual. Men and women assemble in two lines and toss a ball back and forth to get to know one another. It proved to be a cheerful end to our time in Luang Prabang.
What's The Slow Boat To Thailand Really Like?
 |
| A few slow boats sitting on the Mekong. |
After a few hours on board, I was already telling Thore how much I loved it though. Without cell service, you were forced to just be present and enjoy the ride. I found it incredibly relaxing. There was fresh air, changing scenery, and a snack bar in back that served instant coffee, beer, chips, and cup-of-noodle soups. I'd take this over the stuffy buses we'd been on in Laos any day! I think so long as you don't come expecting luxury, and make sure to bring food and a book, you're sure to enjoy yourself! I packed us loads of fresh fruit, nuts, sweet potato chips, and some boiled potatoes wrapped in banana leaf from Luang Prabang's market.  |
| We passed the lush green mountains surrounding Luang Prabang. |
In terms of comfort, things weren't great, but they were far from awful. At the back there was a series of wooden benches with cushions, but also a number of rows of cushy, albeit worn, car seats. Both days, we made a point to board quickly so we could snag the comfier and quieter seats toward the front away from the motor. But even those who got stuck with wood benches in back didn't have to suffer for too long. By afternoon only about half the passengers were left, and almost everyone had a bench to themselves and could lay down to read or sleep. Our accommodation for the night also was agreeable. I figured we might be staying in a hut with mosquito nets and a generator, but the tiny village of Pak Beng where we stopped had nice guesthouses with heated water and comfy beds. There were a few restaurants, a paved road, and power from a hydroelectric power station down the river.
 |
| Our boat carried everything from produce to a motorbike and a fridge. |
 |
| Locals were often waiting at stops to help unload goods and sell snacks to passengers. |
 |
| Can you spot the homes along the river? |
While two days on the river is probably my limit, I really enjoyed seeing the isolated communities we past. It was incredibly impressive to see how people without access to roads, electricity, or running water make do with fishing, farming, and raising livestock. Many homes were built from gathered wood and bamboo, and had roofs of thatched leaves, making them difficult to spot at times.
 |
| We saw many bamboo poles like this one with nets attached used for fishing. |
I later learned that the bulk of the population actually lives in villages ranging from just a few to several hundred households, according to Encyclopedia Britannica. And, as of 2010, about 8% of the population did not have access to roads, according to the World Health Organization. Seeing the lack of infrastructure firsthand was eyeopening and made me incredibly grateful for so many things that I take for granted on a daily basis like being able to go to store to buy produce or medicine.
Recharging In Chiang Mai
Temples like this were dotted across the town.
Just about everyone told us that we'd love Chiang Mai, the largest city in northern Thailand, so we didn't think twice about spending a week there to sync up with my friend Rosanne who was in the country for a wedding. Driving in we were a little taken a back though. Highways, construction, traffic, and pollution. Is this really the mystical mountain town bloggers rave about and expats flock to? Once we got to the historic center, which is encircled by a moat, it became a little more clear why people like it. The old town was extremely laidback, filled with temples, restaurants, bars, massage parlors, night markets, and you guessed it 7-Elevens. Not a place to go for action or adventure, but a good spot to relax, and that's just what we did.
Celebrating our reunion with some beers!
I used the downtime before Rosanne arrived to take my grubby backpacker self to an actual salon for the first time in about a half year. I felt like a new human when I left. When she finally checked into our hotel, I nearly bowled her and her many bags over with a huge hug. Nothing against Thore--he's a great companion and I can't imagine traveling with anyone else for this long--but my god, I've missed having a girlfriend around!!
My favorite breakfast in Thailand:
Banana pancakes with an iced matcha latte.
We spent the first night catching up at the night market near our hotel, and the next days doing tourist activities at an ultra leisurely pace. We'd break up all that excitement with delicious food as often as humanly possible--if food itself wasn't the main attraction, and pretty often it was.
Chiang Mai is famous for its own Khao Soi, which is a coconut milk-based soup with egg noodles and chicken.
We bought ingredients at a local market.
The highlight of my time in Chiang Mai was definitely a Thai cooking class run by a sharp and witty Thai lady who went by the name Noodle. There were just two other couples in our class, and we all got along famously, so it was nonstop learning, chatting, laughing, cooking, and eating. Basically my dream day. We toured a food market, became acquainted with new ingredients, and cooked five different dishes (spicy papaya salad, Pad Thai, Thai green curry with chicken, chicken coconut milk soup, and mango sticky rice). I couldn't have been happier, and it cost less than €30!
Us suiting up for the class' cooking portion.
The best Pad Thai I've made by a long shot.
Another day we stopped by the main temples in town. I think this is when I truly reached my temple limit. As lovely as they were, all my brain could really muster was, "OK, very nice. Next! When's lunch?". I have to say I've never seem so many Buddha statues in a single place before though. That was kind of crazy.
One of about 50 Buddhas I saw that day.
We passed this temple unintentionally on the way to lunch.
Thinking we should perhaps challenge ourselves and get a taste of the nature Chiang Mai is known for, the following day, we decided to hike Monk's Trail on the outskirts of town to yet another temple. Looking back, I'm not sure if I would even classify it as a hike though. It only took us about 20 minutes to reach the temples. As a vantage point over Chiang Mai, it was a little lackluster given the layer of smog hanging over town, but the lush jungle surrounding the temples and vines crawling over the statues did give the atmosphere that mystical quality I'd been hoping to find in Chiang Mai.
These were cast concrete and not carved stone, which made it slightly less magical for me.
Our first waterfall of the day at Doi Inthanon.
Feeling we could use a bit more adventure, I convinced everyone to rent a car and drive two hours to Doi Inthanon National Park. I have to say the journey didn't get off to the best start. The road there took us through a series of villages, which were just endless unattractive suburbs, and the beautiful mountain views we were promised were nowhere in sight thanks to pollution that left our lungs burning. Pulling up to the poorly maintained and suspiciously vacant parking area at the park entrance, I began to worry I'd woken everyone up early and drag them there for nothing, but after we got inside things started to look up. Just a few hundred meters past the entrance, was a lovely waterfall!
Blue skies up top, but you can see smog at the horizon.
Once we reached a certain elevation, we could finally see blue sky! We stopped at a cute little coffee shop along a river for a pick me up, and then a local village inside the park to have lunch.
The cloud forest's canopy.
I think everyone's favorite part of the park was the "cloud forest" loop though! It was just a short trail near Thailand's highest elevation (2,656 meters) where the air was noticeably cooler, but the vegetation was enchanting. Here, the forest floor was carpet in ferns, and mosses and lichens draped majestically over branches. The foliage above formed such an artistic canopy, with trees seemingly reaching out to touch one another and beams of light slipping through, that I couldn't help but feel it was a divine place. Nature's very own Sistine Chapel. Pictures don't do it justice, but maybe you'll get the idea.
The cloud forest loop was on an elevated wooden walkway as not to disturb the carpet of green.
The queen's chedi was faint purplish pink hue.
Having slightly lost track of time, we then realized we needed to put a move on if we wanted to return our rental car on time. We then blitzed through the park's two very beautiful royal chedis (Thai for stupa), which are dedicated to the recently late and very beloved Thai king and queen, and the surrounding, highly manicured gardens. The monuments were gifts from the Royal Air Force for the king's and queen's respective 60th birthdays (1987 and 1992).
Our last stop was another beautiful waterfall that required zero hiking, which is something that still doesn't sit right with me. I'd prefer to earn my waterfalls, but we still had a blast. We sped back to Chiang Mai while calling the rental company and hoping dearly they'd stay open long enough for us to get Thore's passport back. They graciously stuck around another 20 minutes, saving our butts, and then Thore, Rosanne and I went out for a fabulous last dinner in town. A dramatic and satisfying end to our reunion!
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| Temples like this were dotted across the town. |
Just about everyone told us that we'd love Chiang Mai, the largest city in northern Thailand, so we didn't think twice about spending a week there to sync up with my friend Rosanne who was in the country for a wedding. Driving in we were a little taken a back though. Highways, construction, traffic, and pollution. Is this really the mystical mountain town bloggers rave about and expats flock to? Once we got to the historic center, which is encircled by a moat, it became a little more clear why people like it. The old town was extremely laidback, filled with temples, restaurants, bars, massage parlors, night markets, and you guessed it 7-Elevens. Not a place to go for action or adventure, but a good spot to relax, and that's just what we did.
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| Celebrating our reunion with some beers! |
I used the downtime before Rosanne arrived to take my grubby backpacker self to an actual salon for the first time in about a half year. I felt like a new human when I left. When she finally checked into our hotel, I nearly bowled her and her many bags over with a huge hug. Nothing against Thore--he's a great companion and I can't imagine traveling with anyone else for this long--but my god, I've missed having a girlfriend around!!
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| My favorite breakfast in Thailand: Banana pancakes with an iced matcha latte. |
We spent the first night catching up at the night market near our hotel, and the next days doing tourist activities at an ultra leisurely pace. We'd break up all that excitement with delicious food as often as humanly possible--if food itself wasn't the main attraction, and pretty often it was.
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| Chiang Mai is famous for its own Khao Soi, which is a coconut milk-based soup with egg noodles and chicken. |
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| We bought ingredients at a local market. |
The highlight of my time in Chiang Mai was definitely a Thai cooking class run by a sharp and witty Thai lady who went by the name Noodle. There were just two other couples in our class, and we all got along famously, so it was nonstop learning, chatting, laughing, cooking, and eating. Basically my dream day. We toured a food market, became acquainted with new ingredients, and cooked five different dishes (spicy papaya salad, Pad Thai, Thai green curry with chicken, chicken coconut milk soup, and mango sticky rice). I couldn't have been happier, and it cost less than €30!
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| Us suiting up for the class' cooking portion. |
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| The best Pad Thai I've made by a long shot. |
Another day we stopped by the main temples in town. I think this is when I truly reached my temple limit. As lovely as they were, all my brain could really muster was, "OK, very nice. Next! When's lunch?". I have to say I've never seem so many Buddha statues in a single place before though. That was kind of crazy.
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| One of about 50 Buddhas I saw that day. |
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| We passed this temple unintentionally on the way to lunch. |
Thinking we should perhaps challenge ourselves and get a taste of the nature Chiang Mai is known for, the following day, we decided to hike Monk's Trail on the outskirts of town to yet another temple. Looking back, I'm not sure if I would even classify it as a hike though. It only took us about 20 minutes to reach the temples. As a vantage point over Chiang Mai, it was a little lackluster given the layer of smog hanging over town, but the lush jungle surrounding the temples and vines crawling over the statues did give the atmosphere that mystical quality I'd been hoping to find in Chiang Mai.  |
| These were cast concrete and not carved stone, which made it slightly less magical for me. |
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| Our first waterfall of the day at Doi Inthanon. |
Feeling we could use a bit more adventure, I convinced everyone to rent a car and drive two hours to Doi Inthanon National Park. I have to say the journey didn't get off to the best start. The road there took us through a series of villages, which were just endless unattractive suburbs, and the beautiful mountain views we were promised were nowhere in sight thanks to pollution that left our lungs burning. Pulling up to the poorly maintained and suspiciously vacant parking area at the park entrance, I began to worry I'd woken everyone up early and drag them there for nothing, but after we got inside things started to look up. Just a few hundred meters past the entrance, was a lovely waterfall!
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| Blue skies up top, but you can see smog at the horizon. |
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| The cloud forest's canopy. |
I think everyone's favorite part of the park was the "cloud forest" loop though! It was just a short trail near Thailand's highest elevation (2,656 meters) where the air was noticeably cooler, but the vegetation was enchanting. Here, the forest floor was carpet in ferns, and mosses and lichens draped majestically over branches. The foliage above formed such an artistic canopy, with trees seemingly reaching out to touch one another and beams of light slipping through, that I couldn't help but feel it was a divine place. Nature's very own Sistine Chapel. Pictures don't do it justice, but maybe you'll get the idea.
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| The cloud forest loop was on an elevated wooden walkway as not to disturb the carpet of green. |
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| The queen's chedi was faint purplish pink hue. |
Having slightly lost track of time, we then realized we needed to put a move on if we wanted to return our rental car on time. We then blitzed through the park's two very beautiful royal chedis (Thai for stupa), which are dedicated to the recently late and very beloved Thai king and queen, and the surrounding, highly manicured gardens. The monuments were gifts from the Royal Air Force for the king's and queen's respective 60th birthdays (1987 and 1992).
Our last stop was another beautiful waterfall that required zero hiking, which is something that still doesn't sit right with me. I'd prefer to earn my waterfalls, but we still had a blast. We sped back to Chiang Mai while calling the rental company and hoping dearly they'd stay open long enough for us to get Thore's passport back. They graciously stuck around another 20 minutes, saving our butts, and then Thore, Rosanne and I went out for a fabulous last dinner in town. A dramatic and satisfying end to our reunion!
Spending Breakdown
For 26 days in Laos and Thailand together I spent about €800, excluding some personal expenses like getting a haircut (€70) and buying some of those flowy traveler pants (€5). Thailand was almost twice as expensive per day as Laos. Given the difference in travel costs, I've split spending info up into to sections.
*Costs reduced by traveling as a couple.
Traveling Laos for 17 days cost me under €450. I was getting by on just under €20 a day, excluding the cost of the visa and transport between towns. This is incredibly low considering I was eating most meals out, but I would expect spending to have been a little higher had I been healthy enough to do the motor loops (additional costs for scooter rental, gas, etc.). Costs of food and accommodation varied considerably from town to town in Laos. My share of a bungalow in Don Det was only €2 a night versus about €12 in Luang Prabang.
*Costs reduced by traveling as a couple/group.
Nine days in Thailand came to about €360, and the cost per day was closer to €35, excluding travel between cities. This was cheaper than in my last Thailand budget by about €5 a day, because northern Thailand is a good bit cheaper than the South. We were eating out most meals other than breakfast, which was frequently oatmeal and bananas. The restaurants were a mix of budget and midrange with some night markets mixed in too.
Spending Breakdown
For 26 days in Laos and Thailand together I spent about €800, excluding some personal expenses like getting a haircut (€70) and buying some of those flowy traveler pants (€5). Thailand was almost twice as expensive per day as Laos. Given the difference in travel costs, I've split spending info up into to sections.
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| *Costs reduced by traveling as a couple. |
Traveling Laos for 17 days cost me under €450. I was getting by on just under €20 a day, excluding the cost of the visa and transport between towns. This is incredibly low considering I was eating most meals out, but I would expect spending to have been a little higher had I been healthy enough to do the motor loops (additional costs for scooter rental, gas, etc.). Costs of food and accommodation varied considerably from town to town in Laos. My share of a bungalow in Don Det was only €2 a night versus about €12 in Luang Prabang.
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| *Costs reduced by traveling as a couple/group. |
Nine days in Thailand came to about €360, and the cost per day was closer to €35, excluding travel between cities. This was cheaper than in my last Thailand budget by about €5 a day, because northern Thailand is a good bit cheaper than the South. We were eating out most meals other than breakfast, which was frequently oatmeal and bananas. The restaurants were a mix of budget and midrange with some night markets mixed in too.
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